Japan Blue,
Proudly Presented to the World
Awa Ai refers to the natural indigo dye called "Sukumo," which is made by fermenting indigo leaves grown in Tokushima Prefecture. Compared to other types of indigo dye, Awa ai has a deep color that remains vibrant and luminous rather than dark. This article explores the history and appeal of Awa Ai, a tradition believed to span over 1,000 years.
The History of Awa Ai
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Records Dating Back to Around 900 AD
Due to the favorable climate and soil conditions for indigo cultivation, it is said that Tokushima has long been a thriving center for indigo production. The exact origins of Awa Ai remain unknown, but by the mid-900s, records from the Naikiryō (Imperial Secretariat) already documented indigo cultivation, stating, "Indigo from Awa Province is the finest." During the Sengoku period(1467-1568), samurai began dyeing the garments worn under their armor with indigo. The deep, dark shade of indigo, which was close to black, was called "Kachiiro" (勝色), meaning "victory color," and was highly valued as a symbol of good fortune. Around this time, the production of "Sukumo," a fermented indigo dye, began in earnest.
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Edo Period – The Peak of Awa Ai Production
The industry flourished during the Edo period, as Hachisuka Iemasa, the feudal lord of Tokushima, strongly encouraged indigo cultivation. The Yoshino River, a major river flowing through Tokushima, often flooded, creating fertile soil ideal for indigo farming. This led to the establishment of a thriving indigo-producing region, with Awa Ai becoming dominant across Japan. Some merchants, known as Ai Daijin (Indigo Magnates), amassed great wealth. By the mid-Edo period, the production of cotton garments surged, increasing the demand for indigo dye. As a result, the production of Awa Ai expanded significantly. The industry grew so large that it was said, "Awa produces 250,000 koku (33,822,500 kg) of rice, but 500,000 koku (67,645,000 kg) of indigo," indicating that the indigo economy was twice the size of the feudal domain’s official rice production.
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Modern Era – Facing Competition from Imports and Synthetic Dyes
Even after the Meiji period (1868–1912), indigo farming remained strong, with Tokushima accounting for more than half of Japan’s total production. However, competition emerged from inexpensive, high-quality Indian indigo and, later, synthetic indigo dyes. By the late Meiji period, synthetic dyes rapidly gained popularity, leading to a steady decline in traditional Awa Ai production. During the 1970s, a renewed interest in traditional crafts and natural materials sparked a revival of Awa Ai. As people sought handcrafted, sustainable products, indigo-dyed items gained attention once again, leading to a gradual increase in indigo cultivation.
The Unique Appeal of Awa Ai
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Genuine Indigo Dyeing with Sukumo
The defining feature of Awa Ai is its deep yet radiant shade of blue, free from dullness. This vibrant hue has earned global recognition as Japan Blue and is celebrated as a cultural symbol both in Japan and abroad. Because it is a natural dye, Awa Ai is also eco-friendly and offers a warmth and softness that synthetic dyes cannot replicate. Beyond its aesthetic value, indigo dyeing has practical benefits. Historically, indigo-dyed clothing was prized for its insect-repellent and antibacterial properties, serving as a testament to the wisdom of past generations.
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The Enduring Value of Awa Ai in the Modern Era
Today, Awa Ai continues to evolve while preserving its traditional roots. Indigo-dyed products now extend beyond clothing to include accessories, home decor, and even art pieces, adding beauty to everyday life. In Tokushima, visitors can participate in indigo dyeing workshops, experiencing firsthand the rich heritage of Awa Ai. From cultivation to dyeing, the entire process is done by hand, requiring the dedication of skilled artisans. The preservation of this tradition is a collective effort involving not just indigo farmers and dyers but the entire community. As a cultural treasure of Tokushima, Awa Ai embodies the harmony between nature and human craftsmanship, and its mesmerizing hues continue to captivate people worldwide.
Association for indigo industry
Founded in 2019 with the goal of inheriting the tradition of "Awa Ai" and further developing it for the future, the association carries out a wide range of activities.
