Timelessly Cherished for Its Coolness and Comfort
Awa Shijira Ori (Awa Shijira Fabrics) is a unique cotton fabric known for its distinctive "Shibo" texture, which creates a bumpy, crinkled surface. This gives it a pleasant feel and a refreshing coolness. Originating in the mid-1800s in Atake Village, Tokushima Prefecture, this textile has been highly valued for its comfort and breathability. Over time, it has evolved into a nationally recognized traditional craft.
The History of Awa Shijira Ori
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It All Started by Chance
The first person to conceive Awa Shijira Ori was a weaver named Hana Kaifu, who lived in Atake Village, Tokushima, in the third year of Ansei (1856). At the time, commoners were prohibited from using silk fabrics, so it was customary to wear cotton textiles, which were then called “Tatae-jima” in Awa Province.
One summer day, while drying a cotton kimono outdoors, Hana noticed that a sudden rain had dampened the fabric. She was struck by the beauty of the uneven patterns that formed in the areas where she had mistakenly miscounted the threads during weaving, causing them to shrink. This accidental discovery inspired her to develop what would later become Awa Shijira Ori.
Through repeated trial and error, Hana eventually perfected the technique of adjusting thread tension to create the crinkled texture known as shibo. This fabric was not only light and cool but also affordable, quickly gaining popularity across Awa Province. In the second year of Meiji (1869), a cotton merchant named Jūbē Abe officially named the textile Awa Shijira Ori, marking its recognition as a distinct traditional craft.
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Fusion with Aizome – A Nationally Recognized Traditional Craft
Awa Shijira Ori continued to spread widely, and around the same time, Awa Ai (Awa indigo), which was actively produced in Awa Province, began to be used for dyeing the fabric. In 1978 (Shōwa 53), “Awa Shoai Shijira Ori”, dyed with Awa Ai, was officially designated as a National Traditional Craft of Japan.
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Beyond Traditional Wear – Expanding into Various Fields
Awa Shijira Ori, which has primarily developed as fabric for traditional garments such as kimonos and jinbei, has seen a decrease in production due to the decline in demand for traditional clothing in recent years. However, today, its technique has expanded beyond traditional wear, finding applications in various fields, including Western clothing, accessories, and small items.
Features and Charm of Awa Shijira Ori
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The Refreshing Coolness Perfect for Summer Created by "Shibo"
Awa Shijira Ori is woven using a combination of ”Hiraori (plain weave)” and "Hikizome (bundled warp)” sections. In the “Hiraori“ section, six warp threads are each passed through one thread, while in the “Hikizome” section, six warp threads are grouped into two sets of three threads each. This difference in thread tension creates the characteristic "Shibo" texture. This Shibo not only provides a pleasant texture but, being made of cotton, offers excellent moisture absorption. Because the fabric has less surface contact with the skin and allows for good airflow, it provides a cool and comfortable wearing experience.
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Infinite Expansibility
The cool comfort of Awa Shijira Ori holds infinite potential. It has expanded beyond traditional uses and is now being used for fabric in shirts, blouses, and dresses, as well as fashion accessories like scarves, hats, ties, and bags. It has also found applications in interior items such as noren (curtains), coasters, and table runners. Moreover, manufacturers continue to develop new Shijira Ori fabrics incorporating innovative materials and designs, exhibiting them at domestic and international trade shows, and challenging themselves to explore new markets.
Awa Shijira Ori Cooperative Association
The association, composed of manufacturers with over 100 years of history, is dedicated to promoting the spread of Awa Shijira Ori through various initiatives.
